From Metz to Vic-sur-Seille - June/July 2024
We spent a week hiking a section of the GR5, starting in Metz and ending in Vic-sur-Seille, crossing the quiet and green landscapes of the Lorraine region. It was very much a rainy edition, but returning to Metz, where we had arrived the year before, made the start feel familiar and special.
The weather set the tone early on. One evening in Metz, we watched a massive thunderstorm roll in, with heavy rain and dramatic skies. Our tents took the beating and survived, which already felt like a small victory before the real hiking even began.
Because of the persistent rain, we made a slightly unconventional logistical choice. We mostly avoided carrying tents during the week. Instead, we left our car and camping gear at one location and used trains to move between stages. In this part of France, that worked remarkably well. Train connections were practical, flexible, and took a lot of weight off our backs, which made long, wet hiking days much more enjoyable.
Despite the rain, or perhaps partly because of it, the week felt rich and rewarding. Days were filled with alternating sunshine and showers, soggy trails, tired legs, and the small comforts that matter most on a hike: good coffee, fresh croissants, quiche, and the steady rhythm of walking. Sharing all of this with my favourite hiking brother made it even better.
On the final days, we did pack everything again. We hiked to Vic-sur-Seille, a sleepy village where we needed to catch a bus back to the car. It was, unsurprisingly, another rainy day. While waiting, we ducked into the local bar for coffee. It turned out to be the Sunday meeting place for the village, and sitting there, drying off and listening to local conversations, felt like a perfect and very human ending to the trip.
Sore feet, wet clothes, and a fair amount of rain, but also long days on the trail, simple food, strong coffee, and the quiet satisfaction of being back out hiking again. Lorraine delivered, even under grey skies.
